Thursday, 26 February 2009 20:10 by
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Cleaning a rubber roof no longer has to be a knee-bending, backbreaking chore.
RUBBER ROOF CLEANER from Protect All, Inc. is formulated to make the cleaning
process both easy and quick, eliminating hours of washing, rubbing and buffing.
Removing the buildup of dirt, roof chalk and airborne pollutants can now be
done "standing up" with a sponge mop and a bucket of water. A soft
bristle brush can be used in tight areas or when necessary to remove stubborn
grime. RUBBER ROOF CLEANER eliminates rinsing and runoff keeping the RV clean
and dry. Roof cleaning can be performed at campgrounds, storage lots or where
ever water use is restricted.Rubber Roof Treatment reduces chalking that causes
ugly gray streaks down the side of the vehicle creating more frequent cleanups.
Roof chalk is a by-product of the rubber material that occurs most often when a
rubber roof is exposed to excessive moisture and heat.
Depending on environmental conditions, treating should be performed two to four
times annually. In drier climates, two applications a year may be sufficient.
In climates with moderate to heavy rainfall or humidity, it may be necessary to
treat your roof three to four times a year to reduce the chalking process.
Regular treatments of Protect All Rubber Roof Treatment will help redeuce
chalking and frequent cleanups. Check it out atm> www.protectall.com
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Thursday, 26 February 2009 20:09 by
adminMany RVers purchase an RV to have the ability of taking their dogs with them no
matter where the road leads them.Some campgrounds have pet limits. Some
national parks don't allow pets, especially in the back country. Most
campgrounds where pets are allowed forbid leaving them in the rig
unaccompanied. That is not to say that you can't take your fur-kids with you.
Just be aware that you may encounter places which, well, let's just say are
less than "pet friendly." You know your dog/s better than anyone. If
you can find a situation at home where they will be content and well cared for
it might be better than the whirlwind tour that you have in mind. If on the
other hand, whenever you have left them in the past for a couple days, they
don't eat and whine for you endlessly as if their hearts are broken, then take
them along. Or if you have kids that will cry as if their own hearts are broken
because they are worried about the dogs and don't enjoy the trip then you'll
want to bring them along.What's the difference in leaving them "locked up
in the coach" and "locked up in the house while you are at
work?" Regardless of your decision, when you do take your dog on the road
always have your shot records handy. Although you may never be asked for them,
your better safe than sorry.
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Monday, 9 February 2009 22:00 by
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There has always been a theory of putting ice cubes in the black tank with water to "clean" things up. Myth or not some RVers have tried. Depending on your model the secret is to use a lot of cubes and not much water. The trick is to get the cubes sliding around causing friction around the walls, not just floating and bobbing in the water. In any case you are trying to clean the tank walls-not the sensors. It may be that just putting a bunch of clean water in the tank and driving around will do as much as water and ice. Adding some detergent might also help. Another solution is pressure washing the tank walls.
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Monday, 9 February 2009 21:57 by
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Electrostatic filters work by charging the dust particles in the air which is supposed to attract them to metal plates in the machine. The trouble is these charged dust particles are also attracted to all the surfaces of your home, causing what's called "deposition," black markings on the walls. Some of these machines also produce ozone which is a chemical that oxidizes the surfaces of your home and is very harmful to breathe. The 3M Filtrete seems to perform better than most of the permanent ones at $13 per unit. Metal-frame filters made by DustFree are also durable, effective, and moderately priced. Expect to pay your HVAC company about $70-$90 for this one. The Newtron filters have better-looking literature but weren't as durable. Most have molded plastic frames. They claim a 'lifetime warranty' and retail here for $125+. There are many other brands of varying quality and price. Just look for word "electrostatic" on filters. It's the flat material instead of accordian-style of the average residential filters. Do your research and weigh your options. Look for them at your local Walmart, Lowe's, Ace Hardware and Target.
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Monday, 9 February 2009 21:55 by
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Water Leaks: Past or present, leading to wood rot, especially in the overcab bunk. May come from siding seams, windows, clearance lights, or A/C, vent, or other penetrations. Musty smell is a good hint.
Tires: Need to be less than 6 years old, regardless of tread remaining; otherwise budget for replacement.
Function: Have the seller demonstrate al appliances and systems for function.
Water Pump: Should run fairly quietly and briefly when 1st switched on, then shut off until you use water; short-cycling can indicate a leak. In central and South Florida, it's probably not winterized, so that's an unlikely excuse for not demo-ing.
RV Reefers: Reefers tend to cool very slowly, so ask 'em to plug it in or run it on propane as soon as you start looking, then check at the end. you should notice both some (not much, most likely) cooling, and heat coming out the outside upper reefer vent (likely on roof).
Generator: should start & smooth out quickly; with a brief (3-5 minute?) warm-up, it should carry the house A/C load just fine, with no noticable fluctuation in RPM at steady load. Some newer small Onan carbs are not rebuildable, & can run $500 to replace, so a no-start or rough-running genny is not a minor thing to ignore. Most require 1/4 tank of gas to run, so it's easy for the seller to say they can't demo it; be insistent.
Driving: Check oil & coolant, and tire pressures your-own-self (60-65 F, 75-80 R if load range E is a good start; take an adequate gage), then take it out for a drive among heavy, fast big trucks on a 4-lane. This'll be a fair substitute for a windy day. it should track fairly straight with minimal correction, and not white-knuckle you too bad when passed by a truck. Also do some 'rolling' or bumpy 2-lane pavement to check for excessive sway & steering /tracking oddities. Best to have test driven several, to get a feel for what they should rive like, even ones out of your price range.
Most of us aren't as good at realistically judging the condition of a vehicle that we want as we'd like to think. A good suggestion is to pay a good mechanic for a PPI of at least the chassis (engine, trans, brakes, etc.); maybe also an RV tech for a 'house' inspection Just remember there a lot to look at. Service records, mileage, underneath rust. Was it keep inside or out In the weather? Make sure everything works and get some help looking it over.
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Monday, 9 February 2009 21:53 by
adminThe fith wheels seem to have many advantages. With the weight over the axle of the truck, they can safely tow a much heavier trailer. The placing of the tow connection just in front of the truck's rear axle means that the turning ratio is far shorter and the two can be turned in a much tighter angle. A Travel Trailer is inherently unstable at anything over about 55 mph due to a "double pendulum effect." Any sway of either vehicle can produce an adverse steering effect caused by the axle becoming slightly off square as one side goes down on the suspension further than the other. A fifth wheel trailer also generally has a larger storage capacity in the basement than does a travel trailer. However, with a TT, you can use the bed of your truck for storage. Most 5ers have the master bedroom above the hitch which still leaves the kids below in the social area after they have bedded down. With some TTs you can have bunks that can be closed off from the social areas which is always good. Remember that TTs have flat floors as oppose to 5ers which have stairs. This fact could be an important difference for those with mobility problems. There are many key differences to consider but depending on your lifestyle one of the two are guarranteed to accomadate your needs.
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Monday, 9 February 2009 03:12 by
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With a Class A motorhome, you will have access to all of your comforts while driving down the road. You won't have to stop, get out and walk back to the 5th wheel to get a cold drink, food or use the bathroom. If you stop during inclement weather, you will not have to get out of your nice dry motorhome unless you want to or have to. If you buy one with leveling jacks, you pull or back into your campsite, turn your levelers on, hook up your water, electric and sewer, put your awning out, set up your table and chairs, and you are ready to enjoy yourself If you travel with children, it is easy to keep them entertained in a Class A motorhome. With an in-motion satellite dish, they will be able to watch TV going down the road. They will also be able to play video games or watch DVDs if you run the auxiliary generator.
You will also find out that some of the high end resorts only allow Class A motorhomes, and then the motorhome has to be over a certain length and under a certain age.
To help you make a decision, attend some RV shows, read all the forums you can find and check out the different makes. Also check the forums for dependable dealers, for sales and service. Be very wary of extended warranties sold. Read the fine print for what is required for the warranty to be honored and what it actually covers. A lot of extended warranties are not worth the paper they are printed on. Finally, remember to check out insurance companies and their rates for your area.
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Monday, 9 February 2009 03:09 by
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Concerned about chemical exposures? In early 2005, the government listed naphthalene, the primary ingredient in mothballs, as a carcinogen. To keep moths out of your drawers safely, sprinkle a few drops of cedarwood oil inside. Or make your own natural moth-repellent bags with this recipe from Care2: Mix 2 ounces of dried rosemary and mint, 1 ounce dried thyme American ginseng, and 8 ounces of whole cloves
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Monday, 9 February 2009 03:07 by
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Well here are some of the things that require idling. First some diesel manufacturers want you to warm the engine up before you put a load on it. Also if you have a turbo on your diesel, you want it to cool down before shutting it off. It is very hard on the bearings of the turbo if you shut it off while the turbo is still hot. With a pyrometer on your RV you will learn that it takes as long as about 3 minutes to get to a shut down temp; most of the time less. It's always good to review your vehicles user manual or contact the manufacture because depending on your RV, there might not even be a proper startup. Some aren't meant to idle at all, but to start up and not use full power till it is warmed up. Sometimes you may need to keep the engines going to keep the vehicle powered up for refrigeration. Warming the engine up long enough to raise air pressure to full (about 2 to 3 minutes) is usually a good idea. Check the oil temperature. If the oil temp is rising and is at least 20 degrees over ambient if it's winter, then you can start moving out of the space and out of the park. By the time you're on the road, the oil is at operating temperature and the water is starting to rise as well. Just remember that other than 2 or 3 minutes upon startup or shutdown, idling can also wastes fuel and can be rude towards others.
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Sunday, 8 February 2009 22:29 by
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Many RVers carry a gun in their RVs. Most of them, we believe, are aware of the gun laws in their home state but not those of other states where carrying a gun may be a felony. It's sad to say but nonresident travelers are commonly arrested on a firearms felony for a violation that wouldn't be a crime at home. Routine traffic stop can suddenly turn into a nightmare with the unsuspecting traveler hauled off to jail. So please remember to check the laws in each projected visit state before hitting the road!
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